tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27272354941066260792024-02-21T07:36:11.372-05:00The Bitchin' StitchTrue Tales of StitcheryMz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-52227608367696048932010-07-28T18:10:00.000-04:002010-07-28T18:10:27.838-04:00Giving up the dotcomHello reader(s),<br />
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I'm giving up my dot com address, which has always redirected here to my blogspot anyway.<br />
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If you have the site bookmarked for any reason, please switch it over to http://thebitchinstitch.blogspot.com/<br />
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Cheers,<br />
ErinMz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-44295460805140984692010-05-19T20:57:00.001-04:002010-05-19T21:04:00.427-04:00Keeping me on my toesInterwebz, I have a problem.<br />
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I have over 100 crafty/fashion/sewing/costume blogs in my rss feed. A year and a half ago, it hadn't really occurred to me to seek out or read crafty blogs, but now I just can't stop. There are only a handful of them that I will actually stop and read every post, usually I just skim down until I see a picture that catches my eye, and maybe, just maybe I'll read some of the associated text. And I wonder why I can't focus on anything. Blame the blogs.<br />
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<a href="http://www.designspongeonline.com/">Design Sponge</a> is one of the ones I usually skim past, to be perfectly honest. Don't get me wrong, it's a finely crafted blog. But it's updated about one million times per day which makes for a lot of posts to get through in the old reader. It's also one of those <a href="http://jezebel.com/5517893/the-new-decornographers-bloggers-with-perfect-beautiful-craftsy-lives">blogs that makes me feel inadequate</a> for not living in an ultra-hip apartment made fabulous through my own handiness and eclectic design genius. My apartment looks nothing like anything on Design Sponge, believe you me.<br />
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But every now and then I see a post that is actually something I would actually do in my real life, not my fantasy fabu-life. So I thought I'd share a couple.<br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.designspongeonline.com/2010/05/behind-the-bar-with-aran-goyoaga.html#more-49369">Homemade ginger-ale!</a></span></div><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><i>Mine looks much less romantic, and I skipped the strawberry consommé (this time).</i></div><br />
(brb - just going to fill up another glass.) <br />
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Aaaaaahhhhhhhh. This is so amazingly simple and rewarding. It's basically grated ginger, sugar, water, lemon juice and yeast, mixed with two days of patience and a little ice. Sipping on this soda pop that I MADE makes me think of how great it would be to be sipping on actually alcoholic ginger beer that I MADE. There is research to be done. For now, the virgin version is fine by me.<br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_735353951">Pouf</a><a href="http://www.designspongeonline.com/2010/05/sewing-101-making-a-pouf.html/comment-page-1#comment-148595">!</a></span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.designspongeonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/1-overhead-beauty-shot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="http://www.designspongeonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/1-overhead-beauty-shot.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I've had a similar version of one of these for a long time that I stuffed with newspaper as emergency seating when I have too many guests in my tiny, and not fabu-furnished apartment. I also have bags AND boxes of scraps in my closet to deal with, so more floor cushions are on the horizon. I plan to use the larger scraps for the cover and the smaller scraps for the stuffing. I also plan to add a zipper on the side to jam more scraps in there as time goes on and the stuffing compresses.<br />
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So, reader(s), wanna feed my addiction and let me know about your favourite blogs?<br />
Or projects you've recently bookmarked? Those of the scrap-bustin' variety are most welcome.Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-30726838566442239662010-05-18T22:56:00.000-04:002010-05-18T22:56:51.775-04:00On A Go Forward BasisHow do these bloggers do it? I mean, I have a had enough time actually getting around to doing stuff, and then to write about it? I have developed such immense respect for people out there like <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/">Gertie</a>, <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/">Peter</a>, and <a href="http://selfishseamstress.wordpress.com/">The Selfish Seamstress</a>, who not only embark on amazing and inspiring sewing adventures every day, but find the time to write about it in a wholly entertaining and engaging way. Just had to send out some props to those guys (and the hundred or so other blogs that keep me on the computer and away from the sewing machine!).<br />
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I'm into the second week of my internship with a production of The Jazz Singer (in Yiddish no less) and it's been so refreshing being back in a theatre environment after a while away. I've worked on a couple of little projects since I started sewing school, but it's great being in the costume shop all day working with fantastic people. So far I've drafted and sewn a couple of camiknicker sets (I don't know if that's a real word) and cut out 9 identical sequined chorus girl dresses.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/43/123465102_c958e7e3de.jpg?v=0" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/43/123465102_c958e7e3de.jpg?v=0" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.twolia.com/blogs/heres-looking-like-you-kid/files/2009/03/joan_crawford_ourblushingbrides-232x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.twolia.com/blogs/heres-looking-like-you-kid/files/2009/03/joan_crawford_ourblushingbrides-232x300.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now, I can't claim the ones I made are quite as glamourous as this, but they're pretty sweet if I do say so myself. I'll try and get some photos of the costumes we're working on at some point.<br />
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In other news, I'm making myself a jean-ish jacket, sort of based on this one but not quite:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wlgvde0f6GdoPmGYY-qp84V1LVkmEGbzvDfd7icoen1OaHcdx7uXMamjpQQnKpQ0ioIi4wVCWH6dzbD48pePoo0SOBA0QSB4A3dL-Bm67ZY0crxmIAWiMiUC4bpRBWBH0UPBgVp9DNY/s1600/2007_Tour_Master_Indigo_Denim_Jacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wlgvde0f6GdoPmGYY-qp84V1LVkmEGbzvDfd7icoen1OaHcdx7uXMamjpQQnKpQ0ioIi4wVCWH6dzbD48pePoo0SOBA0QSB4A3dL-Bm67ZY0crxmIAWiMiUC4bpRBWBH0UPBgVp9DNY/s320/2007_Tour_Master_Indigo_Denim_Jacket.jpg" /></a></div>I have never in my life found a jean jacket that looks good on my big busted, narrow back-ed, short waisted physique, and am not crazy about the double-denim look (and do wear jeans at all times). So it's a jean-ish jacket. Found some white stretch cotton twill that I've had in my stash for, oh, 10 years now (actually recalling the age of items in my stash sort of makes me queasy). Got the jacket mostly made up except for collars, cuffs, facing and zip, but then the old machine called it quits. So I moved on to dyeing while waiting for my aggravation level to subside. Was hoping for a purplish grey colour, but ended up with a very much purple. We'll see if I overdye it or leave it be.<br />
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That's it for now, dear reader(s).Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-85465908223612607312010-05-02T11:22:00.000-04:002010-05-02T11:22:24.991-04:00Spring has sprung!Well, interwebz, it's been awhile.<br />
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I'm almost finished my diploma program (which I initially started this blog to document - oops), and will soon be looking for work as a certified seamstress. I sometimes feel like a bit of a crazy person trying to make a career out of something so chronically low-paid and under-appreciated. But one of these days I'll be in business for myself, and that's definitely something to look forward to. For the next year or so I'm stoked about sewing in theatrical costume shops around town and learning all kinds of amazing things - and getting paid! Student living begone! I really am getting too old for that kind of thing. The plus side is that after a year of living on student loans, even minimum wage will make me feel rich! <br />
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Yesterday I cleaned out my sewing space (also known as the kitchen). Everything is organized into cute little (labeled) drawers, and I have a cabinet for my machine now so I don't have to heave it up onto the kitchen table every time I want to sew. I think this will help me get around to my home projects. I haven't been bringing much home since I started sewing school; six hours of sewing a day is usually enough for me. But if I just have to flip open the cabinet, and reach into one of my ergonomically placed drawers for scissors, pins and needles, I suspect I'll get a lot more done.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVsGTNwHG7yNAkWMer0eqH7laEvG7TX7HhwI5DIZiCQuM-7bWXtRq2Hu8TJSBly1f840218JP_d7bJIJsGSqQmhlY19PAqgn3yLLx9O9JI7hggzuJBb-t0fW3G0t4lLOcULT5qZAXT3M/s1600/sewing+corner+before+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVsGTNwHG7yNAkWMer0eqH7laEvG7TX7HhwI5DIZiCQuM-7bWXtRq2Hu8TJSBly1f840218JP_d7bJIJsGSqQmhlY19PAqgn3yLLx9O9JI7hggzuJBb-t0fW3G0t4lLOcULT5qZAXT3M/s640/sewing+corner+before+after.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
There she is, before and after. Kind of makes me want to sit down and do some sewing right now. But, I'm afraid there's still the matter of the closet....<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc7quQNGDgfpr-jHjzPU8YupkVEkc9on4OWqEYimax2w7mAzYw_TC6EEO9yiFq5owGLiJQNZ4OfZYGnu1UVYFm8b87MK3oq8T3Hhxsx9TqUGgVbQ8Qf0TztNL479rjL8JN34g4nlGrdEw/s1600/sewing+closet+before.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc7quQNGDgfpr-jHjzPU8YupkVEkc9on4OWqEYimax2w7mAzYw_TC6EEO9yiFq5owGLiJQNZ4OfZYGnu1UVYFm8b87MK3oq8T3Hhxsx9TqUGgVbQ8Qf0TztNL479rjL8JN34g4nlGrdEw/s320/sewing+closet+before.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">*Sigh*</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">It must be done. I finish school this week, and have to make room for all of my notes and projects I'll be bringing home over the next few days. It's my intention to have a skim through them and do a few posts on the most interesting things I've learned over the past year in sewing school. And this time I mean it! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">I've always thought spring resolutions were much better than New Year's resolutions. After all, spring is the real new year, January 1st is just a hangover. So here are my spring sewing resolutions:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">1. Finish clearing up the sewing area, and making it a nice and easy place to work.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">2. GET RID OF STUFF. See how full that closet is? NO NEED.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">3. Make myself a wardrobe. With inspiration from <a href="http://www.theuniformproject.com/">The Uniform Project</a>, I'd like to make myself a series of tunic style dresses that can be worn with tights or pants, with a cardigan type thing over top. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">4. Make me some underpants and bras. If anyone has a line on an underwear pattern that doesn't ride up, you know, where the sun don't shine, please share! </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">5. Get back into fabric manipulation, felting, dyeing, embroidery, etc. I did a diploma in textile studies, goodness, almost 10 years ago, and would love to put into practice all of the amazing things I learned there. Have been very curious about compost dyeing, anyone out there ever tried it?</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">6. And of course, blog more! I must admit, with so many great crafty blogs out there, it's easy to get swept away reading, and never get around to contributing. And so I resolve to stop being such a little lurker, and step up!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">And what about you, dear reader(s)? Has the coming of spring renewed your inspiration?</div>Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-50472224397382100332010-02-03T23:14:00.000-05:002010-02-03T23:14:25.571-05:00Lessons learnedRight now, I'm enjoying a (second) glass of wine, having (finally) delivered my most recent sewing job for someone else. This is not something I do often, and when I do, it tends to be for dear friends. This particular job was for a relative of a friend, and seemed easy enough at first (famous last words).<br />
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This dress had a lovely ruched bodice with a three layer skirt. The top two layers (chiffon and a sort of polyester lining fabric) were gathered at the waist, something my client was not fond of. Easy enough right? Detach skirt from bodice, pull out gathers, recut side seams and sew. The problem? Firstly, slippery fabric is slippery and hard enough to cut when it's painstakingly laid out flat on a table. When it's still attached to a dress (cause I sure as heck didn't want to detach all those layers from the zipper and reattach them), it's a little more evasive. The second problem: fabric cut on the bias.<br />
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Now, awhile back, I had read a feature in Threads magazine about <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/11421/hands-on-with-kleibacker-lessons-for-working-with-a-bias">Charles Kleibacker</a> "Master of the Bias". You've probably read this article, because Threads has rerun it about three times now (is this a pet peeve of anyone else?) What I learned from this article is that fabric cut on the bias has, well, a bias, in that it leans more heavily in one direction than the other. This is because of the way fabric is woven. Wovens, you see, have a warp and a weft. The warp is threaded onto the loom (vertical threads) and the weft is shuttled back and forth between (horizontal threads). This creates a fabric which is more stable vertically than horizontally. This is why when you cut your pattern pieces, you lay them out with the straight grain indications running parallel to the selvedges of the fabric (the vertical sides).<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c7/Kette_und_Schu%C3%9F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c7/Kette_und_Schu%C3%9F.jpg" width="288" /></a> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weaving">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weaving</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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When you cut on the bias (on a 45 degree angle to the straight grain), you still have to contend with the warp being more stable (taut) than the weft. This causes the fabric to lean more heavily to one side. According to Kleibacker, to rein this in, you want to add a centre seam to your garment, and cut so that the warp is radiating out from this centre seam, instead of across the whole of the garment, causing the fabric to bias evenly on either side. Allow me to illustrate (for actual photos of an actual garment, click on the Kleibacker link above):<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4SeztFVykBa_l1NrGi0wa92SopZOhRAhw0Gy38DZp44E8paUrLBOf9gi2wRkCx_qXHPQKPUz6cA7NEA5-3Y4lxBviPf_DHC_y2KvWtA1R25m7cZfRYsX95T5bWxeQ7g5mfiVSI1xWgU/s1600-h/bias.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4SeztFVykBa_l1NrGi0wa92SopZOhRAhw0Gy38DZp44E8paUrLBOf9gi2wRkCx_qXHPQKPUz6cA7NEA5-3Y4lxBviPf_DHC_y2KvWtA1R25m7cZfRYsX95T5bWxeQ7g5mfiVSI1xWgU/s320/bias.jpg" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On the left, we see a skirt front fully cut on the bias (no, my arrows are not perfectly on the 45 degrees - I mentioned I'm on my second glass of wine?). The arrows represent the warp threads leaning in one direction. On the right, we find a skirt with a centre front seam, each side having been cut with the warp radiating outwards. Now, picture a slightly a-line skirt that forms slight waves towards the hem when worn. The skirt on the left will have a more prominent wave on one side than the other. The skirt on the right will have equal waviness on either side, obviously the more desirable effect.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This lesson remained somewhat abstract to me until I undertook this project. This particular dress, having much fullness in the skirt, did not concern itself with a centre seam, since there was so much excess fabric, that gravity pretty much took care of any biased waving. Gathers removed, however, it was quite an endeavour to get a slimmer look without more of a wave on the sides (or, on one side) than on the front. The more I tried to slim it out, the more I got a pronounced "pook" on one side than the other. I ended up leaving more of a flare on the sides than desired, because at least it looked more even.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNEnx4_O-jLyISVECyBmINOy-HZCRaNqOACuXNzTsVQet8y0LbYxh4F7LqF_XIlsBULTAucr0TdU8Jp-XLIB8NR6xN3hWLwKjZ4PZsjZINiWm4aW5bhqonIcLpidhSmw65b-JwiWnoFI/s1600-h/bias+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNEnx4_O-jLyISVECyBmINOy-HZCRaNqOACuXNzTsVQet8y0LbYxh4F7LqF_XIlsBULTAucr0TdU8Jp-XLIB8NR6xN3hWLwKjZ4PZsjZINiWm4aW5bhqonIcLpidhSmw65b-JwiWnoFI/s320/bias+2.jpg" /></a> </div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">On the left is the result when I tried to slim out the skirt. It had a much more pronounced lean on one side than the other because it was cut on the bias in one piece. On the right is the skirt with more fullness than desired (as in, more on the sides than on the front), but at least it was even. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Well, I hope that made some sense. I didn't quite understand it myself until I tried to explain it to my boyfriend over dinner (yes, I do subject him to this sort of thing). I'm not very on the ball about taking pictures of my process, so line drawings shall have to suffice for now, dear reader(s?).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">A review of lessons learned:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">1. It's never as easy as it seems. In fact, sometimes, it may be easier to just make a new frikkin dress than to alter one.</div><div style="text-align: left;">2. You can't fight the fabric.</div><div style="text-align: left;">3. Until I have actually produced a complete wardrobe for myself, I shall not embark on any alterations for others, unless I truly love you. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">A <a href="http://selfishseamstress.wordpress.com/">Selfish Seamstress</a> inspired haiku to leave off with:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">It may seem easy.</div><div style="text-align: left;">I forgive you, you don't sew.</div><div style="text-align: left;">I should know better.</div>Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-44199867825902611442009-11-23T21:16:00.003-05:002009-11-23T21:41:27.066-05:00Steam-shrinking a waistband, or, The sewing trick that CHANGED MY LIFEEvery now and then, you come across a new way of doing things that hits you like a ray of light from the heavens.<br />
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Today in class our teacher showed us a way to take in a pair of pants (or a skirt) without...well...taking them in. I mean, without taking off the waistband, taking in the side seams, shortening the waistband and then putting the whole mess back together again. No darts either. Nope. No stitch ripper to be seen here. How is this possible you ask?<br />
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THE MAGIC OF STEAM!!<br />
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Some of you may be nodding knowingly already. Maybe you are fondly remembering when you first discovered this trick. If not, dear fellow sewist, read on.<br />
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<i>~ Stick with me...it's a long one but a GOOD one!~</i><br />
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As someone with a large waist/hip differential, I find myself laden with clothing items that fit my hips and are way too big at the waist. I hate wearing belts because they add bulk where I really don't need it. So what do I do? Well, up until now, I was just sad. But now! Now!!!<br />
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Here are the pants I was wearing today. Believe me, I'm not keen on showing any portion of my midriff on the internet, but for the cause I will suck it up (but not suck it in - much).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3SYCpNARXBAi_QbhG176wppUFfWFBgpoWJVg-cY2P9jNCp6TaNN5io_v8jGdTFilH4z60lIK4Uouyud_b6xtk7zrq9HLJrrd-QMiuUvOu76THmZ8nPGAuaSXqYfhvrkKJw-myEZ03gfM/s1600/pants+too+big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3SYCpNARXBAi_QbhG176wppUFfWFBgpoWJVg-cY2P9jNCp6TaNN5io_v8jGdTFilH4z60lIK4Uouyud_b6xtk7zrq9HLJrrd-QMiuUvOu76THmZ8nPGAuaSXqYfhvrkKJw-myEZ03gfM/s200/pants+too+big.jpg" /></a><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">They're too big! They generally feel fine for an hour or so after they come out of the washer and dryer but by the end of the day are so big I barely need to undo them to take them off. All of my jeans are like this.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg40StWJjzPc4ZGbPHW5f82-1W8AV3Mz55mNao0h2Vi4YkVPF33KrP_YiipK1gckARPGMcHNsbvyc5O-02tdS6NL1fR8jeKU4jZGV5K3Jl9ijyZvoa9yVAvFqptfp5VBWKOkS6ck8aWkck/s1600/waistband+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg40StWJjzPc4ZGbPHW5f82-1W8AV3Mz55mNao0h2Vi4YkVPF33KrP_YiipK1gckARPGMcHNsbvyc5O-02tdS6NL1fR8jeKU4jZGV5K3Jl9ijyZvoa9yVAvFqptfp5VBWKOkS6ck8aWkck/s200/waistband+after.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>*Pssst!* They'll end up like this! </i><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Shall I get to the point?<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Ok, ok. So what I did was STEAM the waistband until it got smaller, and then held it in place with a couple of lengths of twill tape. EASY! Here's the whole process.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>A caveat</b>: This will likely only work on natural fibres that respond to steam shaping. If you want to do this with a synthetic, you could try skipping ahead to step <span style="background-color: yellow;"></span>2, you just won't be able to get rid of as much excess. With washable fabrics, save yourself some time and effort and wash and dry them as you normally would before beginning.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Step 1: Shrink out the excess</b><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Put the pants (or skirt) on and determine how much excess you have to get rid of. When I pinched my waistband as above, I figured I needed to shrink it down by about 3" total.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Take off the pants and measure the waistband. You'll check your progress against this number.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(If you've just taken them out of the washer/dryer, you may be able to skip all of this steaming business and go straight to step 2).<span style="background-color: yellow;"></span> <br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucUKS4g_jpm7DjX8ETFpRt245kQp68EmPx1Cj6AWmGTau-Dlo8DHgpiipcGtB8GrByZRMhvSjWmJTk5nEzuRNiWNR7ohQFxon7y-EcEBB4ljRxtZz7kGgF5YOsBACe30KHv2Q_irFHW4/s1600/measure+waist.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucUKS4g_jpm7DjX8ETFpRt245kQp68EmPx1Cj6AWmGTau-Dlo8DHgpiipcGtB8GrByZRMhvSjWmJTk5nEzuRNiWNR7ohQFxon7y-EcEBB4ljRxtZz7kGgF5YOsBACe30KHv2Q_irFHW4/s320/measure+waist.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWvip94GTcorvdAJoZelFs0gxCGGpyCT3gmBoTOdgGc74EKcRkvOzN0tSNmJwQGYOVcRzjLMqA5KrOkKqd69LWJPgeGpk28Dfs-bGAfW_5mtyfqW8TTh-XoovT1F3on9t0z7h1i4jbPc/s1600/initial+measurement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWvip94GTcorvdAJoZelFs0gxCGGpyCT3gmBoTOdgGc74EKcRkvOzN0tSNmJwQGYOVcRzjLMqA5KrOkKqd69LWJPgeGpk28Dfs-bGAfW_5mtyfqW8TTh-XoovT1F3on9t0z7h1i4jbPc/s320/initial+measurement.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Half my waistband measured about 17 1/4".<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So my goal is to shrink out 1 1/2" (1/2 of 3") to get that measure down to 15 3/4".<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We'll see about that.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Start by pinning a section of the waistband to your ironing board. At school we have a fancy schmancy steam press like at the drycleaners with an amazing pinnable surface and a vacuum that sucks away the steam at the end and dries out your fabric quickly. Not so at home.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTrxMoetvQ5X7ws7qySzw96CVAiSFDdB9ixbR8xcVUSVBWYTsln4lBnMd2ewb6q4WcuP8NckEaJN0X9caung0rBgdZues-KtUsqJ2h8jVqJPsaHFG9KgnMrNa2wdeHbGKGC2qtpvYOR0g/s1600/pin+to+ironing+board.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTrxMoetvQ5X7ws7qySzw96CVAiSFDdB9ixbR8xcVUSVBWYTsln4lBnMd2ewb6q4WcuP8NckEaJN0X9caung0rBgdZues-KtUsqJ2h8jVqJPsaHFG9KgnMrNa2wdeHbGKGC2qtpvYOR0g/s320/pin+to+ironing+board.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In order to keep the jeans in place on my not-so-pinnable ironing board, I stuck pins in from all directions. The idea is to hold them so there is a bump as above. We're going to try to steam that bump flat.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKLlvGbLWWxVA3Yh6_F1boxZphZiL7zUv-rnb9Rbx0_CNumGlsDYK4Rk-kuF-SayY0D4A4VgRNT92-PjUelwoLtrB-nPuBTONx3SjmQ4BbC0zjEjINRfOHQxbjAN9UVpQDAVvBQ5SsvEk/s1600/steam+waistband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKLlvGbLWWxVA3Yh6_F1boxZphZiL7zUv-rnb9Rbx0_CNumGlsDYK4Rk-kuF-SayY0D4A4VgRNT92-PjUelwoLtrB-nPuBTONx3SjmQ4BbC0zjEjINRfOHQxbjAN9UVpQDAVvBQ5SsvEk/s320/steam+waistband.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the highest steam setting, tap down on the waistband with the iron. This is pressing, not ironing, so no back and forth action. Just up and down. If you have a button on your iron that gives you a shot of steam, all the better. Keep steaming until you've managed to get the waistband flat.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyF2efnTwzCfIBDRf1cIkBr6XNRHnp4OO7b6hS8xwxeWqb1Hwi6PhQjJgPTXDdl3pxscJpUt6eOSCm48NXcYzCTdc0QWT1KFeoDWkrhgkSgXAyl0kXGebO0DnovfYmBlW4tbtDLeGZlZo/s1600/waistband+pressed+flat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyF2efnTwzCfIBDRf1cIkBr6XNRHnp4OO7b6hS8xwxeWqb1Hwi6PhQjJgPTXDdl3pxscJpUt6eOSCm48NXcYzCTdc0QWT1KFeoDWkrhgkSgXAyl0kXGebO0DnovfYmBlW4tbtDLeGZlZo/s320/waistband+pressed+flat.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Like this! Cool, hey?<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To keep the waistband from stretching back out again as soon as you pick it up, you have to make sure it is dry, and not still all full of steamy moisture. (This is a general pressing principle, by the way. All will be lost if you consider your pressing done when the item is still damp). If you can go back and forth between steam and dry iron settings, that can help. You can also use a clapper, or a piece of wood, or an ironing ham to get rid of the excess moisture.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKBQnkh7SBS4xoRjxF2mxHg5GTwOC9CwbIqcggsNcg99qS7RfDULk5bIQ3bmzdtodSEfkvJlCRcaz_zEK_mMr6KBJqsmLPx9f_RJ0_g6yOHNUB0qwMTsaG6hET7daG915wayAqOK4X2Q/s1600/smack+the+guts+out+of+it.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKBQnkh7SBS4xoRjxF2mxHg5GTwOC9CwbIqcggsNcg99qS7RfDULk5bIQ3bmzdtodSEfkvJlCRcaz_zEK_mMr6KBJqsmLPx9f_RJ0_g6yOHNUB0qwMTsaG6hET7daG915wayAqOK4X2Q/s320/smack+the+guts+out+of+it.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Smack that steam out!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, work your way around the waistband in small sections, shrinking as you go. This, as it turns out, is easier said than done on a thick denim waistband. Our teacher did the demo on a thinner, cotton, cargo type fabric and it worked like a charm.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSnqa3_7ep4LUI1Ee5a5EZEWSNGaVwCAmVCO8z0pinKzGy2ulWXXMAhzHe_20YE-lXEszyuCOeZiecCfa4QBf9Z1gWixdHFuTmlrteyRxVZNrywV0nkJAX0ipePbPStxzl41VffqwzFLs/s1600/waistband+will+buckle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSnqa3_7ep4LUI1Ee5a5EZEWSNGaVwCAmVCO8z0pinKzGy2ulWXXMAhzHe_20YE-lXEszyuCOeZiecCfa4QBf9Z1gWixdHFuTmlrteyRxVZNrywV0nkJAX0ipePbPStxzl41VffqwzFLs/s320/waistband+will+buckle.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But with thick denim, I ended up with a lot of this bulky bumpy action.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrKKng_h5MBgk5zoInOYCNz4mLEPxB2_sBFbhBh6b_JnEHVGrYnGcYTkyMIxiwsFum26IPEgBz8brrTELMU8uADt_uY3CCea4ECmmeR-O45FUZgTuZ9S_6R71qfc9jUHwMd4imdKlZlfs/s1600/try+to+deal+with+buckles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrKKng_h5MBgk5zoInOYCNz4mLEPxB2_sBFbhBh6b_JnEHVGrYnGcYTkyMIxiwsFum26IPEgBz8brrTELMU8uADt_uY3CCea4ECmmeR-O45FUZgTuZ9S_6R71qfc9jUHwMd4imdKlZlfs/s320/try+to+deal+with+buckles.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I tried to smooth out the bumps, but I think I smoothed out the shrinking at the same time.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It took me a couple of rounds to get some good shrinkage, and along the way I found a good technique:<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFmYiYj82zLUXlKN-DoPu7wZf0TGXipOlNdAD00VVGwW2q8KzyY6Yjdr-FGX0yGHSoUPM-GjViOGJZQNeK0MWES7ikyQRDDnjNUombwztgfvtkZF6GfTqlp19-1zHxSi1uyxQl6vhNE5E/s1600/hold+pants+with+butt+of+iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFmYiYj82zLUXlKN-DoPu7wZf0TGXipOlNdAD00VVGwW2q8KzyY6Yjdr-FGX0yGHSoUPM-GjViOGJZQNeK0MWES7ikyQRDDnjNUombwztgfvtkZF6GfTqlp19-1zHxSi1uyxQl6vhNE5E/s320/hold+pants+with+butt+of+iron.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Hold onto a part of the jeans with the butt of your iron, then...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3VTWxwYe5pu8oFdKmBWOiU8gXP0SIxDoZWCSiqvMjD_-ang8wrwS8lN_Kaz6MIaX05YMZbIWMgM9pE6QJkC_e3F_WYWAaPonajjShRrmEx3rJB0UpnrXQl4JMoA45TSKzPsmG2TzgSE/s1600/then+smoosh+jeans+towards+iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3VTWxwYe5pu8oFdKmBWOiU8gXP0SIxDoZWCSiqvMjD_-ang8wrwS8lN_Kaz6MIaX05YMZbIWMgM9pE6QJkC_e3F_WYWAaPonajjShRrmEx3rJB0UpnrXQl4JMoA45TSKzPsmG2TzgSE/s320/then+smoosh+jeans+towards+iron.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With your other hand, smoosh the upcoming waistband under your iron and steam away.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8QrPBavGqAJEahjCYlr4yOvxtmxWEnjTcJp5sozDivs7i8csRlTMqPi6rG0C9FicAL79zl4pZrDQ8_t0R0h5C2EmqtSM8Oq-4v_i1txWQF578GUMmbNt99hf_T6XhAbi0AnWjJpK1mek/s1600/use+damp+presscloth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8QrPBavGqAJEahjCYlr4yOvxtmxWEnjTcJp5sozDivs7i8csRlTMqPi6rG0C9FicAL79zl4pZrDQ8_t0R0h5C2EmqtSM8Oq-4v_i1txWQF578GUMmbNt99hf_T6XhAbi0AnWjJpK1mek/s320/use+damp+presscloth.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You may also find that a damp presscloth is helpful. Just don't forget to make sure the section is dry before moving on!<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj820TFmIORNSaA3ttULkPHQXm4keNjeRMTsQziTkwtifB8nj-e4wNwCLsuCF4I1YnwgU0Xhlw3bcXLO-Cv_-PtHa3oaFhWRhHNuvsLNtFn611xBumwyvd6jDXzOJpCkxLwcUAbR0w02U/s1600/do+the+inside+too.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj820TFmIORNSaA3ttULkPHQXm4keNjeRMTsQziTkwtifB8nj-e4wNwCLsuCF4I1YnwgU0Xhlw3bcXLO-Cv_-PtHa3oaFhWRhHNuvsLNtFn611xBumwyvd6jDXzOJpCkxLwcUAbR0w02U/s320/do+the+inside+too.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It can also help to work from both sides.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2dhiLdVSCShyAb3uCQhkCQ-IqGakg_40NsLsI5Obt68IWNBG3-DZMftWOH-GHc0L_TDkt4KaYDHLwyaT-I5abWlbCpGjZR1wmEngDgoDG7eaNBFOcmOCvkxxxQG9stbUfoO0zyaLs7r8/s1600/measurement+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2dhiLdVSCShyAb3uCQhkCQ-IqGakg_40NsLsI5Obt68IWNBG3-DZMftWOH-GHc0L_TDkt4KaYDHLwyaT-I5abWlbCpGjZR1wmEngDgoDG7eaNBFOcmOCvkxxxQG9stbUfoO0zyaLs7r8/s320/measurement+after.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end, I managed to shrink out 3/4" of the folded waistband (1 1/2" total). Not bad, but I wanted to get rid of twice that!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's ok, there's a whole other step.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Of course, the steam shrinking is not going to just stay like that forever. With wearing, the waist will stretch right back out. The solution is now to stitch on a length of twill tape or something that will not stretch to keep the shape we've just worked to hard to make.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Step 2: Keep it in place</b><br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJ4PUvGGuJAyfTxETiEvH5XrDPaOVhOoOoJa3-wTN7x6uc6mAamPx7QGY5v0mZmo8p0Fxr43RuKv6se_2OmU6cXOWEATRwY6h0SFEzks4GiT-9UaczTQJEcLi0cQ0oXnyq69PfDrwepU/s1600/twill+tape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJ4PUvGGuJAyfTxETiEvH5XrDPaOVhOoOoJa3-wTN7x6uc6mAamPx7QGY5v0mZmo8p0Fxr43RuKv6se_2OmU6cXOWEATRwY6h0SFEzks4GiT-9UaczTQJEcLi0cQ0oXnyq69PfDrwepU/s320/twill+tape.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Place the twill tape along the lower edge of the waistband. Your bobbin thread should match the colour of your jeans to blend in. You can start sewing just after the zipper in the front (i.e. 1 1/2" or so away from the edge of the waistband). Backstitch a few stitches to stabilize.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2l5UASzwi4mUh4Nldg82vNzsg6MHkN1XtRXUzIRTHWJyav5Gi7D8maE3TU6SRFE6VEPAZjL_0t2Y6jOKHlIkj1C6za7Fi2iQevpqh29T584kuKZZquxV-z_hDopdhQRvniPJzlDWz19Y/s1600/push+and+pull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2l5UASzwi4mUh4Nldg82vNzsg6MHkN1XtRXUzIRTHWJyav5Gi7D8maE3TU6SRFE6VEPAZjL_0t2Y6jOKHlIkj1C6za7Fi2iQevpqh29T584kuKZZquxV-z_hDopdhQRvniPJzlDWz19Y/s320/push+and+pull.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now pull your twill tape taut (not too hard now, just taut), and sort of smoosh the jeans towards the presser foot. This will enable us to ease that extra 1 1/2" of waistband onto the non-stretchy twill tape. It's important not to force your fabric or your machine, you don't want to break a needle, so the pushing and pulling should be gentle.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(PS - do not substitute bias tape for twill tape. It will stretch and all will be for naught). <br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, my machine admittedly did not enjoy this process. She's an old refurbished Brother with a bit of a wheezy motor. So there were quite a few times I had to do the push/pull with one hand and move the fly wheel with the other. For goodness sake use a good heavy #14 needle and a fairly long stitch for this business.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJNNV1AL-YyIZ98q0ZrABe943Ej8cgJ1JzMwCFaTP8h5yTnwtRjxFvl17UaCijtrBQ1FyWyzwjybKJ2bEufFMR2l31l-jWz6eYfu5epE_GhjU_goBcwsHb3iCJ44TsKHgAe5K3gE3UsY/s1600/oopsie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJNNV1AL-YyIZ98q0ZrABe943Ej8cgJ1JzMwCFaTP8h5yTnwtRjxFvl17UaCijtrBQ1FyWyzwjybKJ2bEufFMR2l31l-jWz6eYfu5epE_GhjU_goBcwsHb3iCJ44TsKHgAe5K3gE3UsY/s320/oopsie.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You don't want to sew over your belt loops like I did. (Only one!)<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXjyIzauIAk_cENEcEtSselsyEwcjI7IDgVQSVYSgErOockOJtPsQEfOoT-CupUjqyi_NfuYKQNLKliuZdQyMnSwLGeIqbvr2fdILTSZjCL9HLCNqjaAJXCX_x5wya7xh1Km1fauLr7H4/s1600/stop+here.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXjyIzauIAk_cENEcEtSselsyEwcjI7IDgVQSVYSgErOockOJtPsQEfOoT-CupUjqyi_NfuYKQNLKliuZdQyMnSwLGeIqbvr2fdILTSZjCL9HLCNqjaAJXCX_x5wya7xh1Km1fauLr7H4/s320/stop+here.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Stop before the belt loops and backstitch. You'll know the belt loops on the backside by the bar tacks holding them on. Then just skip over the belt loop and start again on the other side, backstitching again.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlfL1wp15s4kl-KgF-HNeTWq40L5Bs7HVP-z7h8NbXJEJ8Y-l8ECOo_JLPU7ZDCSC3PyPT0f94xgr5hDeXVPoAeCl9QnChTFnDtMe6PB3UqFH1v0vcc6vWMar6G1a4zVfSTwf6Qt_EHgM/s1600/skip+the+belt+loops.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlfL1wp15s4kl-KgF-HNeTWq40L5Bs7HVP-z7h8NbXJEJ8Y-l8ECOo_JLPU7ZDCSC3PyPT0f94xgr5hDeXVPoAeCl9QnChTFnDtMe6PB3UqFH1v0vcc6vWMar6G1a4zVfSTwf6Qt_EHgM/s320/skip+the+belt+loops.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then you can just snip off the threads when you're done.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I put a length of twill tape at the top and bottom of the waistband to better hold it in place. You could even stitch on either edge of the twill tape - or use a narrower twill tape.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5RcofrdxugnSNVJKkSLyPcEGRwPyfJcTDpSC1Csg9X-xLeb_-h5mQhUqCx85iz4-P5_Vg8wkG_AXLHgKYn8v2K63L2Djy00kYjGXcbF1Kw__OARd21D8e1AZ9AlqTzMoHEQEWqasJQP8/s1600/inside+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5RcofrdxugnSNVJKkSLyPcEGRwPyfJcTDpSC1Csg9X-xLeb_-h5mQhUqCx85iz4-P5_Vg8wkG_AXLHgKYn8v2K63L2Djy00kYjGXcbF1Kw__OARd21D8e1AZ9AlqTzMoHEQEWqasJQP8/s400/inside+finished.jpg" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, I was so excited about putting these on that I neglected to do anything about the raw ends of the twill tape. I left about an inch or so unsewn that I plan to turn under and hand stitch in place. I may even hand stitch those parts where I skipped over the belt loops.<br />
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</div>But look! Look!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrF5KrLvaPPImB8ls8ZOo9Z_9lXSPQLW4FSTZZMdA4diTxovrdPwYwiKk3dGuowKvpI3NIg6ihvCvzA9aWnXl1peXZ-nIbmDr22fVgcSDETNRSHTwroqyY_4FZYpY73K9cY3EFkmVZeD4/s1600/waistband+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrF5KrLvaPPImB8ls8ZOo9Z_9lXSPQLW4FSTZZMdA4diTxovrdPwYwiKk3dGuowKvpI3NIg6ihvCvzA9aWnXl1peXZ-nIbmDr22fVgcSDETNRSHTwroqyY_4FZYpY73K9cY3EFkmVZeD4/s200/waistband+after.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pants that fit!<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpMXRdgcu7AK0tF69rVCvf229SlJImQS045Gz8qguuLkke_LxIKd2t92FbntFLrnKGkFlmjU4cp-BHXarjoY4zgjeKvGAiYKmFG573-8RiV44nP5IK5o5zPImU7v9RSOnBc7jrWN-fq0/s1600/pants+too+big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpMXRdgcu7AK0tF69rVCvf229SlJImQS045Gz8qguuLkke_LxIKd2t92FbntFLrnKGkFlmjU4cp-BHXarjoY4zgjeKvGAiYKmFG573-8RiV44nP5IK5o5zPImU7v9RSOnBc7jrWN-fq0/s200/pants+too+big.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Too big no more! <br />
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</div>Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-59046283505094341362009-10-22T17:54:00.000-04:002009-10-22T17:54:07.264-04:00Help me internetz!Hi there internetz,<br />
<br />
I'm losing faith in my teachers. Well, just one of them really, but he's our primary teacher, so that makes it all the worse. After 5 months of boring old sewing drills, it seems like we're not being given enough time (or information!) to do the stuff that's really important. Like getting a good fit. We've moved on from pants to shirts, and I'm still not entirely satisfied with the results of my patterns.<br />
<br />
So I thought I'd throw a couple of questions out there that are bugging me:<br />
<br />
1. Pants:<br />
<br />
We started with Vogue 1003, made up a muslin and proceeded with fittings and flat pattern adjustments. Vogue 1003 is a base for what seems to me a pair of trousers, with a sort of "L" shaped crotch curve. Few of us are used to wearing these types of pants, and I feel like we were all (including our teachers) approaching our alterations with more of a jeans fit in mind (with a closer fitting, more rounded crotch curve).<br />
<br />
My question is, wouldn't it be better to start with a pattern closer to that type of fit in the first place? I'm not sure anyone in the class ended up with pants that fit the way they like. What sort of issues come into play when changing a trouser pattern to a jeans pattern?<br />
<br />
2. Shirts:<br />
<br />
We started with Burda 8153, a tailored blouse with set in sleeves. Me and my D-cups chose the pattern based on my high bust measurement (34 3/4", a 12, whereas my full bust, 38" would have demanded a 16) because I always have an excess of fabric above the bust.<br />
<br />
I blended a couple of different approaches to the full bust adjustment. I figured I had about 3 1/4" to add to the bust. The first approach was the one they suggested in my course. This is to cut through the bust dart and waist dart then from the bust point up to a point on the shoulder. The pieces are then spread apart to add the required width and length to the front bodice. I suspected this would just add back the excess fabric above the bust. So I sought out another approach.<br />
<br />
I have Pati Palmer's Fit for Real People, and they suggest when you have a large amount to add to the bust, that you should slash to the shoulder and the armhole, and spread the amount between the two. Now, I tried this, and I still had too much above the bust. So then I tried again with just a slash to the armhole. This fits better, but the armhole now has a rather extreme curve to it where I had to swing it up to give more bust room. That doesn't necessarily affect the fit too much, but I'm afraid it's just kind of wrong...<br />
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Sorry, this may be overly wordy and in need of images, but I figure, if you're reading this and have done a full bust adjustment, then you probably know what I'm explaining. Any thoughts? <br />
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Thanks internetz!Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-52050448452932271212009-09-19T13:34:00.001-04:002009-09-19T13:34:33.621-04:00The greatest of virtuesIn an effort NOT to celebrate a two-month-iversary (remember all those short-term high-school boyfriends?) of total blog neglect, a little update. I've also been spurred into blogging action through a mention on the most illuminating and fascinating space on the interwebz, <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/">Fashion Incubator</a> (*blush*).<br /><br />So what have I been up to you ask? Well, I've decided not to publish the lengthy post I had written about FAILURE, and instead discuss PATIENCE.<br /><br />I am now in the sixth month of a fourteen month dressmaking program at a local trade school. It has taken a lot of the aforementioned patience to get through this far, slogging through learning how to thread a machine, sew a straight line on paper, practice a million sample pockets, collars and cuffs (ok, the collars and cuffs were handy practice) read a commercial pattern and many other things I already know how to do. But now, my friends, we are finally getting to the reason I signed up in the first place: FITTING.<br /><br />You know, I've been a Threads reader for a long time, I've purchased Patti Palmer's books, and yet, I've still not been able to put all of these tidbits together to make myself something that fits in a satisfying way (a major topic in the discarded post about FAILURE). This has been a major stumbling block in my sewing life thus far, both personally and professionally. Last summer I worked as a costume designer at a festival in Nova Scotia, and our last show involved a <a href="http://erinwhitney.blogspot.com/2009/02/grace.html">silk dupioni jacket</a> that was nothing but hell to fit. And I didn't know how to fix it. And my seamstress didn't know how to fix it. Well, we managed, but I tell you it was painful.<br /><br />Which brings me back to my program. We're currently working with Vogue Pattern #1003 to make a basic pant pattern for ourselves. We are a class of 17 women and one man, and let me tell you how great it is to watch each one of those bodies stand up on a pedestel and get their pants fitted before your eyes (not to mention the humility of having to stand up there yourself). Talk about standards, there was only one person who fit the pattern perfectly (a tiny little size 6 at that). I have more adjustments than I'd care to mention (ok here goes: high small waist with love handles underneath, wide but remarkably un-rounded hips, one higher and larger than the other, and whatever it is that makes you need to pinch out the fabric horizontally under your bum). I'm not done yet, but boy I can't wait to have this pattern done and in my collection.<br /><br />So I've decided to cool off on the home sewing projects until I have myself a good set of base patterns (although last night I did do a very satisfying quickie skirt out of an oversized T-shirt with tigers on it.) I hope that it will save me a few tears.<br /><br />In the meantime, I have a bunch of half-written posts that I'll try and be better about finishing.<br />I promise.Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-8580032164109875312009-07-19T14:06:00.009-04:002009-07-21T11:20:34.165-04:00ROUND UP #1: HEMSHemming is one of the most basic and frequent alterations. In the spirit of building from the ground up, I thought it would be an appropriate subject for my first roundup.<br /><br />I checked out a few tutorials online, and the following are my favourites for different types of hems:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;">***<br /></div><br />I love doing hems by hand. There's something nice about taking a little handsewing break, especially if you've been fighting with your machine (a frequent occurrence in my life).<br />The first two links show a similar stitch (I usually use the first method), and the third is a bit of a quickie. Make sure you take an extra stitch (or knot your thread) now and then, so that if part of your hem breaks, you don't have to repair the whole thing.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/"><br /><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 161px; height: 121px;" src="http://sewfordough.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/sewing-blog-259.jpg?w=300&h=225" alt="" border="0" /></a><a href="http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/">SewForDough</a>: <a href="http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2009/06/15/hand-sew-a-hem/">Hand Sew a Hem</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUb0K9rW86YX77_6CSeyTVlUwXhWLN2iM5Hupg9SwKp2zoGE8vj44AahAA8h0rN9kQ3PfxQufwLhfYMF0DWgXbnlg5cBDYzJl4xwBsqsY6QZJnhO3MdZVPbLVwdc4EI3BhwxZpj1eVoxc/s1600-h/Picture+1.png"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 163px; height: 87px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUb0K9rW86YX77_6CSeyTVlUwXhWLN2iM5Hupg9SwKp2zoGE8vj44AahAA8h0rN9kQ3PfxQufwLhfYMF0DWgXbnlg5cBDYzJl4xwBsqsY6QZJnhO3MdZVPbLVwdc4EI3BhwxZpj1eVoxc/s200/Picture+1.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360921222271550626" border="0" /></a><a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/">The Sewing Divas</a>: <a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2009/07/15/hemming-stitch-by-hand/">Hemming Stitch by Hand</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNOzVleTVjURTZVQz_MYXBGkKXpm443rlq-ki1PObPKk1B1KgjOqyIRLAYQvpnIfXu0DLz_fGvoPVjTyWZEsw77eyaWXsAlPvlux1WwQFEtQx_pCfBhxYxRG_1qWCQoDqk8DVls3vlK70/s1600-h/Picture+2.png"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 169px; height: 71px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNOzVleTVjURTZVQz_MYXBGkKXpm443rlq-ki1PObPKk1B1KgjOqyIRLAYQvpnIfXu0DLz_fGvoPVjTyWZEsw77eyaWXsAlPvlux1WwQFEtQx_pCfBhxYxRG_1qWCQoDqk8DVls3vlK70/s200/Picture+2.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360921579621531186" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.craftzine.com/">Craftzine</a>: <a href="http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2009/03/howto_hand_sew_a_blind_hem.html">Quicker Hand Blind Stitch</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />A blind hem can also be accomplished on a machine, but it's not nearly as good. It's more appropriate for pants or thicker fabrics. When you do a blind stitch by hand, you can really pick up only one thread, rendering your hem truly invisible. On a machine, a lot more is picked up and you end up with a small vertical stitch every inch or so. Still, if you're doing a huge panel of drapery or something, go with the machine stitch!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://images.nextnewnetworks.com/11159_blog.png"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 175px; height: 98px;" src="http://images.nextnewnetworks.com/11159_blog.png" alt="" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.threadbanger.com/">Threadbanger</a>: <a href="http://www.threadbanger.com/post/8120/how-to-do-a-blind-hem-stitch-on-your-sewing-machine">Blind Hem by Machine</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Normally when I hem jeans, I just fold over the edge twice and sew it with a nice heavy jeans thread. But I do mourn the loss of that special, unreproducible look of an original jean hem. Here's an interesting way to preserve the original hem. (Oh, apparently it is known as a "Euro Hem". How fancy.)<br /><br />Sidenote: I love my <a href="http://www.amisimms.net/jeanamajig.html">Jean a ma jig</a>. It's so simple yet brilliant. Keeps your machine from getting angry and skipping stitches when you go over the bulky seams in jeans.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://static.flickr.com/39/78161264_506382173e_m.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 136px; height: 102px;" src="http://static.flickr.com/39/78161264_506382173e_m.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.daciaray.com/">Dacia Ray</a>: <a href="http://www.daciaray.com/?p=38">Jeans Hem</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />A narrow hem is lovely in a fine fabric. Both of these techniques use guide stitches to help you fold such a small edge accurately. The second technique adds an extra step of stitching and trimming to achieve a super narrow hem, and is perfect for slippery, hard to control fabrics.<br /><a href="http://chickpeastudio.typepad.com/chickpea_sewing_studio/"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://chickpeastudio.typepad.com/chickpea_sewing_studio/images/2008/05/07/2473630605_88ede5afee_o.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 151px; height: 100px;" src="http://chickpeastudio.typepad.com/chickpea_sewing_studio/images/2008/05/07/2473630605_88ede5afee_o.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><a href="http://chickpeastudio.typepad.com/chickpea_sewing_studio/">Chickpea</a>: <a href="http://chickpeastudio.typepad.com/chickpea_sewing_studio/narrow-hem-tutorial.html">Narrow Hem</a><br /><a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/"><br /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilT8xZbgOUevugTNZw21MF-f6DJIPJxoU8dhHfwz7P5lGHEkImBsfpp40ZJAUdeRXT-MG-dL5lQTloTnQvr9RFLAvtzf4O9GxhUILmv86OEzi98vv5nB9PLcflMbv4JoVsnXSljjiJX7U/s1600-h/Picture+3.png"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 136px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilT8xZbgOUevugTNZw21MF-f6DJIPJxoU8dhHfwz7P5lGHEkImBsfpp40ZJAUdeRXT-MG-dL5lQTloTnQvr9RFLAvtzf4O9GxhUILmv86OEzi98vv5nB9PLcflMbv4JoVsnXSljjiJX7U/s200/Picture+3.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360923475795441554" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/">Marcy Tilton</a>: <a href="http://books.google.ca/books?id=3NnJOVOOK1YC&pg=PA106&lpg=PA106&dq=calvin+klein+hem&source=bl&ots=RbbcU2Vebi&sig=KzWqSNdqdyOnBhyFECWz7PntkQY&hl=en&ei=MJhkSub3FZG6NYGz_fcB&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3">Calvin Klein Hem</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Rolled hems are even smaller and finer. They can be done by hand or by machine. I must admit, I have never had fun doing a rolled hem by machine. They're much easier with a stable fabric. Chiffon will make you crazy, and I would definitely pick a hand-rolled hem if faced with that prospect.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgch3qhdiWp8xFBuZHgmJHspse36FGqh4J0x9iBx0HR9Wwim72cIRbNXCrVc7caxnf5Z1JAx4AQAIVGCQDTEjWNnTh_b6xqQbUJKFSKq14nRr700JC48NUotlKWdJJEW0ElXPHUoySCjK8/s1600-h/Picture+4.png"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 160px; height: 98px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgch3qhdiWp8xFBuZHgmJHspse36FGqh4J0x9iBx0HR9Wwim72cIRbNXCrVc7caxnf5Z1JAx4AQAIVGCQDTEjWNnTh_b6xqQbUJKFSKq14nRr700JC48NUotlKWdJJEW0ElXPHUoySCjK8/s200/Picture+4.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360923877848223842" border="0" /></a><a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/">The Sewing Divas</a>: <a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2006/10/16/tutorial-rolled-hem-foot/">Machine </a><a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2006/10/16/tutorial-rolled-hem-foot/">Rolled Hem</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbc26MY33GJz9QVCtx8EweZibBSiPIAm6P4QFhs3Dzil12CDeC6O4SQ5cAqZi-rSUUpJDJ9-tHPOqaURkJcaUgtxu-EYBpwpxo4Qt1o6A3mz8cVA2UQBn_8s-xOdAI64qvBpHZgmNowts/s1600-h/Picture+5.png"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 106px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbc26MY33GJz9QVCtx8EweZibBSiPIAm6P4QFhs3Dzil12CDeC6O4SQ5cAqZi-rSUUpJDJ9-tHPOqaURkJcaUgtxu-EYBpwpxo4Qt1o6A3mz8cVA2UQBn_8s-xOdAI64qvBpHZgmNowts/s200/Picture+5.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360924351675979218" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.colettepatterns.com/">Colette Patterns</a>: <a href="http://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-hand-rolled-hem">Hand Rolled Hem</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />If you have to hem a corner, a mitered finish is a really nice touch. It reduces bulk and just looks so tidy and professional<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://assets3.burdastyle.com/assets/images/de/c4/dec4e71f30c1e43b26c7328b9db5e3cf895a425e/500x400.jpg?1204324065"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 159px; height: 127px;" src="http://assets3.burdastyle.com/assets/images/de/c4/dec4e71f30c1e43b26c7328b9db5e3cf895a425e/500x400.jpg?1204324065" alt="" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/">Burda Style</a>: <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/490">Mitered Hem</a> (simple)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.craftstylish.com/assets/uploads/posts/13024/machine_sew_hem_in_place_lg.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 159px; height: 94px;" src="http://www.craftstylish.com/assets/uploads/posts/13024/machine_sew_hem_in_place_lg.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><a href="http://www.craftstylish.com/">Craft Stylish</a>: <a href="http://www.craftstylish.com/item/13024/how-to-make-cocktail-and-dinner-napkins">Mitered Hem</a> (in depth)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Special cases require special measures! Sew For Dough has some great tutorials for doing <a href="http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2009/06/01/how-to-hem-without-puckers-for-flared-and-tapered-pants/">tapered or flared pants</a>, as well as <a href="http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2009/05/27/hemming-stretch-knits/">hemming stretchy fabrics.</a><br /><br />If you have any other links to share, please post them in the comments.<br /><br />Happy Hemming!Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-15905638410348173512009-07-19T13:11:00.005-04:002009-09-22T18:52:19.207-04:00Sewing Skewl Tip #1: Dominant seamsWhen constructing a sleeve, there are two common approaches:<br /><br />1. Leaving the side seam of the bodice and underarm seam of the sleeve open, sew the sleeve cap to the armscye (right sides together). Then stitch the side seam and and underarm seam all in one go, lining up the armscye seam.<br /><br />2. Assemble the side seam of the bodice and underarm seam of the sleeve. With bodice inside out, and sleeve right side out, place sleeve inside bodice and sew around the armscye, lining up the side seam with the underarm seam.<br /><br />I always thought that it was just personal preference that would make you choose one method over the other, but there is actually a difference. Basically, the seam that you sew last ends up being the dominant seam and can subtly affect the way a garment falls. Choosing method #1 is appropriate in a work shirt or t-shirt (with a flatter sleeve cap) where a full range of motion is required. Method #2 is used for tailored jackets and closer fitting tops (with a higher cap height).<br /><br />The same principle works for pants. When I first learned to sew, I would sew the crotch seams of the front and back first, then the outside seams and then the inseam in one line. We recently sewed shorts in school and the instructions were just the opposite. Here we sewed the outseam and inseam of each leg, then - like method #2 of the sleeve construction - we were directed to place one leg inside the other and sew the crotch seam from front to back, lining up the inseam along the way. This makes the pants "stand up straight" if you will.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkgeblz-5Nud0AeH24eeU3cgRBKr3Lc-LoNAswpvIg0cVNO8DctcmiOmz6Kg1KGxyJTJNAWnoos3k2LlO98iBGvPqbOHves0yuqEztBcnshPL_5QAETeYCgsjWmB9Ki5EV5kKByNamis/s1600-h/dominant+seams.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 360px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkgeblz-5Nud0AeH24eeU3cgRBKr3Lc-LoNAswpvIg0cVNO8DctcmiOmz6Kg1KGxyJTJNAWnoos3k2LlO98iBGvPqbOHves0yuqEztBcnshPL_5QAETeYCgsjWmB9Ki5EV5kKByNamis/s400/dominant+seams.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360230374067080306" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Click on image above to view larger</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">UPDATE: </span><br />The lovely and talented Kathleen from <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com">Fashion Incubator</a> has illustrated this point rather dramatically when applied to linings and facings. I strongly suggest you check out her post <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-better-way-to-sew-linings-and-facings/">here</a>.<br /></div></div>Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-29596942684259675302009-07-17T09:19:00.005-04:002009-07-17T10:35:02.502-04:00Recycled dress (and shrug)<span style="font-weight: bold;">The setup:</span><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">I found a huge duvet cover at the Salvation Army for $4 and figured it would make a pretty cute dress. I was figuring on a basic sleeveless style with an a-line skirt.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />The pattern:</span><br />New Look (will update with the number)<br />Not that it matters, it ended up FAR from the pattern.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />The fabric:</span><br />100% cotton recycled duvet cover<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The issues:</span><br />Numerous. Mainly due to poor size/fabric selection for the pattern.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The process:</span><br />Now I've read many times that when you have more than a B cup, you should take the size that corresponds to your high bust measurement (above the fullest part of your bust) because it will better fit your shoulders and neck. Then you can do a full bust adjustment (FBA). According to this pattern, I think I was a 10 in the high bust/shoulders, a 12 in the waist and a 16 in the hips. So I chose the 12 in the top and blended to the 16 in the hips. As it turns out, I really should have picked the 10 in the top. Shoulders were way too big. Also, the FBA method was not quite right. I've since purchased a <a href="http://www.amazon.ca/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278656/ref=wl_it_dp?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2XBA0CSC6T9R3&colid=1NCXPEG6CWQ51">book</a> on fitting that I hope will help for next time.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Here's what I did:</span><br />1. Made existing bust dart bigger through improvisational FBA<br />2. Added second side dart to get rid of excess waist weirdness<br />3. Added waist seam to get rid of the rest of the waist weirdness<br />4. Made strapless to deal with too-big shoulders.<br />5. Added straps to deal with fear of straplessness.<br />6. Used bias tape everywhere I could (hem, top, straps, waist)<br />7. Ended up with completely different dress from pattern.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_eDqsFut1Jg4D8ZcJQIdOtED2efIbAgAiw7OMh68-JeJ8nerlF6k00kKWuXtdjP9BYyRqarLasB7Gi3DY00v48JnGFWoXyiEuko1xIkFU1fkW-quJVPw0Jw1P8hvq0V4OXYSQqrF09U/s1600-h/erin+dress+med.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_eDqsFut1Jg4D8ZcJQIdOtED2efIbAgAiw7OMh68-JeJ8nerlF6k00kKWuXtdjP9BYyRqarLasB7Gi3DY00v48JnGFWoXyiEuko1xIkFU1fkW-quJVPw0Jw1P8hvq0V4OXYSQqrF09U/s320/erin+dress+med.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359436677602866962" border="0" /></a><br />As for the shrug, I followed this <a href="http://www.craftstylish.com/item/39771/how-to-restyle-a-t-shirt-into-a-ruffly-cardigan">tutorial</a> from <a href="http://www.craftstylish.com/">Craft Stylish.</a> Ruffles aren't really my thing though, so after I cut out the basic shape of the shrug, I serged the edges, turned them under and stitched with a regular straight stitch. DO NOT STRETCH the fabric, or you will end up with wobbly lettuce edges. These edges will not be subjected to stretch, so you really just want them to lay flat.<br /></div></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The result:</span><br />I guess I'm happy with the dress, but it took too much fussing about. Time to seriously get around to making a sloper so I can spend less time making silly adjustments.<br /><br />On the other hand, the shrug was so simple and awesome. I love a shrug. I suspect I will soon have many more (and maybe a few less T-shirts).Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2727235494106626079.post-91639013450253623362009-07-12T23:18:00.007-04:002009-07-14T09:22:05.406-04:00On a missionAnd so begins another attempt at frequent, productive and interesting blogging.<br /><br />Perhaps a good old-fashioned definition of intentions will help it stick. Here goes:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLQBqDOFZPhQ9Nv-wlAoEKj4qJ6lMV2QdmdBr7NgGdqseg5Icql1Hep1-FaTEfXyMnwW8xA6MUzRzkiUnyLdj8eF6tX5lh7bBCFZ-TkNrMtycpgJcN2VWV-IrZgeOFYtIPBR59NvRVoIg/s1600-h/Mission+statement.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 143px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLQBqDOFZPhQ9Nv-wlAoEKj4qJ6lMV2QdmdBr7NgGdqseg5Icql1Hep1-FaTEfXyMnwW8xA6MUzRzkiUnyLdj8eF6tX5lh7bBCFZ-TkNrMtycpgJcN2VWV-IrZgeOFYtIPBR59NvRVoIg/s200/Mission+statement.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358285481918531762" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The purpose of this blog is to:</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> </span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><br /><br />Document stitchery-related items of interest both for personal reference and to participate in an active online community.</span><br /><br /><br />These may include, but are not limited to, the following:<br /><br />a) Sewing projects undertaken by the author (including for contribution to other groups such as Wardrobe Refashion).<br /><br />b) Sharing helpful tips learned in sewing school.<br /><br />c) Compiling roundups of tutorials found online.<br /><br />d) Researching and profiling ways to contribute to social development through craft/artisanship (through organizations and other projects).Mz. Whitneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com0